FROM PUDUCHERRY TO THE GLASS

Venison Saddle | Sweet Potato | Vadouvan

David Gross, our Estate Chef, developed this delicious recipe to pair with 2023 Revana ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon’ Cabernet Sauvignon. Sharpen your culinary skills and invite some friends to share a few bottles of wine for a great evening at home.

To understand Vadouvan is to appreciate a blend of heritage, migration, and trade. Long before fusion cooking became a modern trend, the coastal trading port of Puducherry set the stage for one of history’s great culinary blends. Located along India’s southeastern coast, just a stone’s throw from Dr. Revana’s roots in South India, Puducherry was a French colony for nearly three centuries. It was here that local cooks adapted traditional Indian vadakam using French techniques of gentle low heat and French aromatics like shallots.

For wine lovers, Vadouvan is a secret weapon. Traditional Indian curries can sometimes challenge wine pairing due to aggressive chili heat and raw spice intensity. Vadouvan, however, emphasizes caramelized, umami-rich top notes with sweet shallot, toasted cumin, mustard seed, and subtle turmeric, with just a whisper of gentle heat. This delicate balance lets the spice complement, rather than overpower, a fine wine. The rich, aromatic undertones elevate the fruit core in a structured Cabernet Sauvignon, while its savory depth draws out the intricate earth and spice nuances of an Oregon Pinot Noir. I am particularly fond of the Vadouvan blend at Spiceology

While Vadouvan is the ultimate culinary chameleon and can be paired with any protein, from the depth of dry-aged meats to even the most delicate fish, it finds a natural partner in wild game. Today we will be talking about venison.

Sweet Potato Puree

2 lbs sweet potato
½ lb unsalted butter
Kosher salt to taste
¾ cup heavy cream

Place the whole, unpeeled sweet potatoes in a pot and cover with cold, generously salted water. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook until completely tender to the center when pierced with a knife (about 20–25 minutes depending on size).
Drain the sweet potatoes. While still hot, slip off the skins using a clean towel. Retain the skins and set them aside.
In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the heavy cream and the saved sweet potato skins. Warm gently for 5–10 minutes so the rich, caramelized notes from the skin steep directly into the dairy. Strain out and discard the skins, keeping the infused cream warm.
Set a fresh pot off heat. Pass the warm, peeled sweet potatoes through a potato ricer directly into the pot, alternating with the cold cubed butter. Ricing the hot starch alongside cold butter creates a smooth, stable emulsion without activating excess sticky sugars.
Place the pot over low heat. Gradually fold in the warm, infused heavy cream using a spatula until completely silky and heated through. Season generously with kosher salt to balance the natural sweetness of the potatoes.

Vadouvan Sauce

3-4 medium shallots, minced
3-4 cloves garlic
3-4 sprigs of thyme
2 tbsp Vadouvan spice blend
½ cup Madeira, dry
2 tbsp + 2 tbsp butter
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt to taste

Melt half of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, and thyme. Sauté slowly, stirring occasionally until the aromatics soften and turn lightly caramelized and golden brown (about 10 minutes).
Stir in the Vadouvan spice blend. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring continuously, to bloom the spices in the hot butter until aromatic and toasted.
Pour in the dry Madeira wine, scraping up any caramelized bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 2–3 minutes until the liquid reduces down significantly and the alcohol burns off.
Add the chicken stock and heavy cream. Stir well to integrate the base, then bring the sauce to a gentle, steady simmer over medium-low heat.
Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the sauce reduces by about half and thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 12–15 minutes). Pull out and discard the spent thyme stems, and blend the sauce with an immersion blender or traditional blender.
Transfer your sauce back to a pan to keep it warm, stirring occasionally to keep a film from forming on the top.

Venison Saddle

Venison saddle, 6-8 oz per guest
2 tbsp neutral oil such as grapeseed
Kosher salt to taste
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2-3 sprigs rosemary

Preheat your oven to 250°F (120°C) and allow it to come fully up to temperature.
Coat your venison with a healthy amount of kosher salt on all sides. Place the meat on a wire resting rack set inside a sheet tray to ensure even heat circulation.
Once the oven reaches 250°F, place the tray inside. Exact timing isn’t critical. Simply monitor the internal temperature with a quick-read thermometer. Remove the venison from the oven when the thickest part reaches 120°F (49°C).
Pull the venison out of the oven and set it aside to rest. While it rests, place a heavy skillet (such as cast iron) on the stove over high heat. Give the pan enough time to warm up thoroughly.
Add a splash of high-heat oil to the hot pan. Place your venison in the skillet and sear each side for about 1 minute.
When you get to the final side, drop the butter and rosemary sprigs into the pan and let it melt. Once the butter starts to bubble and foam, baste the melted butter continuously over the venison for the final minute.
Transfer the venison back to the resting rack and let it rest for 5 minutes before slicing against the grain. (Carryover heat will bring the final internal temperature to an ideal medium-rare of 128°F–130°F).

Plating

For a dish made to be enjoyed around the table with family and great wine, keep the presentation simple and rustic. Start by spooning a generous portion of the warm purée onto the center of the plate, using the back of your spoon to smooth out a round well in the middle to catch the sauce. Slice the venison saddle into two thick, even pieces and set them side-by-side right in the center of the well: place one piece cut-side up to showcase that perfect edge-to-edge medium-rare interior and lean the second piece beside it crust-side up to highlight the rich sear. To finish, spoon the warm Vadouvan sauce directly into the well, filling it up around the base of the meat before serving immediately alongside a great glass of red wine.